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Adventures with Grandpa: Indian Trail

On our latest adventure with grandpa, we hiked Indian Trail above the city of Ogden, Utah. The trail traces an old path believed to be used by Shoshoni Indians to travel through Ogden Canyon when the water was high.

Indian Trail is a moderate 8.2 mile hike out and back and gains 2,716 feet. We chose to go one way and parked one car at the Ogden Canyon trailhead, located near the Smokey Bear sign and Fairmount, about 1.5 miles from the mouth of the canyon. Then we drove a second car to 22 Street trail-head and parked there. Our one way hike was 4.1 miles and took us three hours. 

We started at 7:30 on a Saturday morning.  It was the perfect temperature. The first quarter of the hike, the trail wound us through a field of wildflowers. A beautiful yellow wildflower similar to a daisy, lined the path. I believe it was a yellow arrowhead balsamroot. There were also bluebells and light blue Rocky Mountain bee plants.

The trail climbs steadily, around the south end of Ogden Canyon and you can see Rainbow Gardens, El Monte Golf Course and Ogden Canyon Waterfall below.  I thought this cottonwood tree was beautiful in the light of the morning.

We climbed higher and could see the fault lines in the canyon. The trail winds in and out of Warm Water Canyon, climbs to “Nevada Viewpoint” on the ridge between Warm Water Canyon and Cold Water Canyon, and then descends into Cold Water Canyon. Tall pine trees line the trail for much of the way with an aspen forest at the end. 

At the top of the canyon there is a small log cabin with a dog bowl chained to it. We made the boys and Jasmine pause for a picture.

The other side turned more from tall pines to aspens and scrub oak. There are two campsites with fire pits and wiki ups ready for a small group. It was a beautiful hike on such a clear, pleasant day.

We enjoyed hearing stories from Grandpa along the hike. He shared his father’s business and property ventures and how he rode his bike twenty miles one time from Ogden to their farm in Syracuse. He also shared how he would hike with, Sandy, his Irish setter. If Sandy couldn’t go up, then he decided it probably wasn’t a good trail.

He also shared how he worked in a bakery as a teenager one summer and would cover any shift he could get. He would sometimes work 16 hour days. When a loaf wasn’t good enough to sell, he loved to take the fresh bread out of the middle and stuff it in his mouth. He remembered thinking a pastry was so good one time, because he had lived off of bread for a few weeks. I love that my kids get to hear these stories and spend time on these adventures with their grandfather. They will always remember these times and that is what is most important. 

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Adventures with Grandpa: Lakeside, Utah

My father-in-law, Dan Painter, is one of a kind. My kids know when we go with Grandpa on an adventure, we won’t drive on regular roads and more than likely we will have a history lesson along the way. We couldn’t ask for a better Adventure Leader and the memories we are making will last forever.

Dan Painter with his faithful Golden-Doodle, Jasmine

Our Latest Adventure took us to Lakeside, Utah

Lakeside is on the west side of the Great Salt Lake, about a two and half hour drive from Ogden, Utah. While the town now only has a railroad storage shed, in 1901, it was bustling with activity. The town consisted of “homes” made of boxcars placed on temporary sidings and was home to over three thousand residents consisting of men, women and children. The majority of the townspeople were Southern Pacific Railroad workers faced with the tremendous task of building a railroad across the Great Salt Lake. The new track was called the Lucin cutoff.

The Lucin Cutoff was 102 miles of track from Lucin to Ogden. It saved forty-four miles in length, and hundreds of feet in grade. It included thirteen miles of fill and nearly twelve miles of trestle across the Great Salt Lake. It took one and half years to build and cost around 8 million dollars. The workers were paid $2.00 a week ($4.50 for specialists) and water had to be shipped in because no fresh sources were available. When they blasted in the nearby mine, the women and children had to climb under their box cars for safety. The trestles were used for over 50 years, but the timber was constantly needed to be replaced. By the 1950s, the railroad built a causeway with rock and earth and the original trestles were abandoned.

Where the Hell is Delle?

There has never been a better time for a Grandpa Adventure than during this COVID-19 pandemic. On Saturday, we drove to west on I-80 toward Wendover. We stopped for a quick pit stop in Delle where my nephew got a bumper sticker that read, “Where the hell is Delle?” It was quite appropriate as Delle has a tiny gas station, a beat up single-wide trailer, and a sad ruin of what once looked like a motel.  (Photo on left by Jacob Barlow).

We got back on the freeway and took next exit for Lakeside Road. We arrived at Lakeside at 10:30 a.m. and explored the tracks and took a few photos.

We wanted to get closer to the lake so we backtracked for a bit and found another road. As we drove up a hill, cow surrounded us and acted strangely. We didn’t understand until we smelled the hot branding iron as we drove passed a group of ranchers gathered at a corral. Young calves shook in line awaiting their fate. We followed the dirt road to the top of Scad Ridge and the view was breathtaking.

View of the Great Salt Lake and Lucin Cutoff Causeway

You could see the causeway down below expanding over the Great Salt Lake. It was a beautiful, clear day and you could see for miles. We could see Fremont Island and the snow capped Wasatch Mountains to the east. We could also see the Promontory Mountains to the northeast and Stansbury Island to the south.

We hiked up to the hills above us. They almost looked like a scene from “The Lord of the Rings” at Weathertop where Frodo is stabbed by the Nazgul (fantasy geek and proud). The grasses were long and blew lightly in the April breeze. White and pink flowers bloomed among the sagebrush. Ravens and turkey vultures soared above us and horned larks serenaded us below. I loved exploring the cavities that were created by erosion in the rocks.

Skipping Caked, Muddy Sand on the Great Salt Lake

We drove down to the shores of the Great Salt Lake. We skipping pieces of dry, salty sand into the lake. Our dogs enjoyed chasing birds up and down the beach, but they were very sad when they could not drink the water. It looked so inviting and they were so thirsty. 

Grandpa cooked us up some large round, juicy hamburgers on his portable grill and they were so yummy after hiking around for two hours. The lettuce was crisp and buns were soft. It was delicious!

Lakeside Cave and Fossil Hunting

We drove to another area and found a large cave. We explored it for a little bit and then searched around for fossils. There were so many in the rock just on the side of the hills.

We look a “Grandpa Road” home. A “Grandpa Road” in Painter Family Lingo, is an out of the way road that is likely to take a long time. The term was defined three years ago on a road trip to Oregon. We stayed the night in Nampa, Idaho and then followed the Oregon Trail into southeast Oregon. We drove for five hours and ended up back to a point on the map, where had we gone directly, from point A to B it would have taken twenty minutes.

For more on the Lucin Cutoff: check out:

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Raven Rehabilitates Volunteer’s Self-Confidence

Four years ago, Jade Goodell found herself at a low point in her life. She was bankrupt in her mid-twenties and overwhelmed with life’s struggles.

“I went to college and did everything ‘right,’ but I was so inconsistent,” Jade says. “I spent many years making healthy choices and then in an instant, I made terrible ones. I had so much to lose, but I still made those mistakes. I realized I had to change.”

Jade wanted to get excited about life again. She tried crafting, woodworking, and other things but they didn’t stick. She distanced herself from others and spent most of her time alone.

“I started watching videos of eagles and owls sitting on their eggs. I would watch them for hours. I don’t know why, but it was fascinating to me. I devoured all the information I could about birds and decided I had to get close to them.”

Jade now only thinks of her life “Before Cronk” and “After Cronk”
Jade uses the command “Clean Up Your Mess and Go to Your Room”
to get Cronk return to his mew
Cronk’s favorite training treats are pinky mice and frozen corn.

Jade researched and found she could volunteer with the Ogden Nature Center, a 152-acre nature preserve and education center in the heart of Ogden, Utah. She came every Saturday to feed the birds, change their water, and clean up after them. 

Jade loved being close to the eagles, the owls, and other birds but enjoyed the black raven Cronk, who has lived at the Ogden Nature Center since 1998. It is generally believed Cronk was taken from the nest as a chick and raised as someone’s pet. He was eventually released into the wild where he sustained a foot injury, was rehabilitated, but could not be released.

As Jade has worked with Cronk, her confidence in herself has grown.  She even refers to her life now as “Before Cronk” and “After Cronk.” 

“He literally changed my life. People talk about how you need to learn to love yourself before you can worry about anything else. The past three years have been all about that: figuring out what makes me happy and then running with that.  I am happy with me now, and I don’t worry anymore about what other people think of me. It’s not common for someone to find a passion in their thirties, but I leap out of bed in the mornings to come here,” says Jade.

When Jade started, she knew nothing about training birds, especially ravens. She asked Bryce King (the former wildlife specialist at Ogden Nature Center) how she could get closer to Cronk. He told her the only way was to commit to coming every day.

“I don’t think he thought I would do it, but I didn’t miss a single day for over ten months. The only reason I missed was because I sick and couldn’t get out of bed,” Jade says.

Jade and Bryce learned quickly how different it was to train a raven versus a falcon. Bryce was a falconer and taught told her that if Cronk didn’t do what she wanted, then she should walk away and take the food with her because that is how you would teach a falcon to respond, with food orientation.

“I am pretty sure Cronk just laughed at us because he stashes his treats for later. He’s got enough treats in his mew to last him for at least three weeks,” Jade laughs. “He’s as smart as a four-year-old. He plans and anticipates what will happen.  It is very different from falconry, where the falcon relies on its owner for food.”

Jade says her relationships with the other volunteers and employees at the Ogden Nature Center have also helped to boost her confidence and to help her overcome her troubles. “It is really cool because I work with all these other women that do the things that I want to be able to do.”

Heidi Christensen, the current wildlife specialist, is one of Jade’s mentors. “Heidi is fantastic,” Jade says. “She is a single woman like me who has been volunteering here for the last twenty years. She does something that she loves to do and lives a life that makes her happy.  She handles eagles for hell’s sake! I would love to be able to do that, to have an eagle on my hand. It is exciting to see that. There is a lot to this place in general, not just Cronk.” 

But Jade connected with Cronk on a different level from the beginning.  

“Apparently that is not normal as he tends to not warm up to everyone, some even say he can be a jerk.  When I first started here, another volunteer told me to be careful because if I didn’t connect with him right away he would mark me—meaning he would remember if he got a reaction out of me,” she says.

Jade says Cronk remembers everything. A volunteer screamed once when she was with him and she never wanted to go back inside his enclosure.  After that, he would taunt her every time he saw her.

Disconnect. Decompress. I am no expert in telling people how to get through tough times, but I will say that the calmness I get from the silence right now is incredible! The news and constant rumors and worries is just too loud sometimes.”

-Jade Goodell

 

“He knew if he could get her to come close enough that he could get her to scream. He would squawk at her as if to say, “Hey, come over here! You know you want to,” laughs Jade.

Jade learned she could not react to anything Cronk did, especially if he bit her. He would do it over and over to get a reaction from her.   

“When he bites, it feels like you are getting cut with rusty scissors, but I had to hold completely still.  He would grab a piece of my skin and there would be bruises underneath it. There were many times I had bloody hands,” she says.

Jade knew she was connecting with Cronk when he started to pinch her instead of bite. “He lets me pet him for a little while and then give me a little pinch to let me know that’s enough.”

Jade’s strongest bond was forged with Cronk after she lost her twelve-year-old Miniature Schnauzer.  Her dog had had twelve seizures in a row and the vet thought he must have had a stroke because he was trying to eat his bowl and not his food. He also could not correct his paw when she turned it into the wrong position. Jade had to put him down. Jade let her beloved dog go on Saturday and then came in to spend time with Cronk the next morning. 

“It had been a week of torturous hell,” Jade recalls. “I wasn’t crying but my entire persona had changed. My heart was broken. I came in and usually Cronk darts out of his area like he is saying, “Let’s go! Let’s do this!” But I swear to you on that day he came out and he paused and maybe he felt my aura. He stopped, looked straight into my eyes, and he put his head down for a pet. It is not unusual, but normally it is food first, pet later. I pet him, and he stayed that way. I sat cross-legged on the ground and he got up into my lap and I cried my heart out. He had never done that before nor has he done it since, but it was like he just knew that I had lost something close. I don’t even know how to express it. It was so powerful in so many ways and I just sobbed. Then, he bit me and then walked off.”

Jade says the moment was probably only five or six seconds, but it was what she needed. 

When she first started working with Cronk she did not see much progress, but other volunteers commented how they could not let Cronk come out in the walkway in front of his mew, because they could not get him to go back in. When they weren’t looking, he would put a rock, a stick or a toy in the door so when they went to latch it, the door would bounce back. Cronk also has a tiny door above the main door that has a little latch on it, and he would unlatch it so it would bring the little door down and block the main door from shutting. 

Jade taught him the command, “Clean up your mess and go to your room!” She points to his mew and then tells him to go inside. She gives him a treat (usually frozen corn and pinky mice) inside his mew. 

“How did you get him to do that?” was the common response among the other volunteers.

Jade doesn’t really know why she and Cronk have connected, but she is grateful for it. During this time of uncertainty while dealing with a global virus, unprecedented unemployment, and overall stress, she is particularly grateful she has an outlet where she can experience peace. 

Jade says, “I actually got to a point last week of being incredibly stressed, more stressed than I’ve been in a very long time. I finally said I needed a day off to refresh my mind.  As cheesy as it sounds, I just had to hang out with Cronk, go back to my happy place. I spent three hours just sitting with him! Then I got myself some air and quiet, and that’s the best thing I can recommend to anyone right now is silence. Find a place you can get away from social media for a bit. Disconnect. Decompress. I am no expert in telling people how to get through tough times, but I will say that the calmness I get from the silence right now is incredible! The news and constant rumors and worries is just too loud sometimes.”

Jade hopes people will read her story and be inspired to make changes in their lives and forge connections that maybe they haven’t thought of before. “Not very many people pursue what they are really passionate about and they should! It’s huge!” she says. 

She also says if your passion aligns with the mission of the Ogden Nature Center, you might consider signing up as a volunteer when the ONC reopens to the public, or donate to the nonprofit organization through their website .http://www.ogdennaturecenter.org All donations help provide exceptional learning experiences and inspire lifelong environmental and community stewardship. 

Cronk loves to say “Hello” and “God Bless You, Man”
Jade spends an hour every morning working with Cronk.
“He’s everything to me,” she shares.
The connection between Jade and Cronk is undeniable.

 


 

Mother’s Day Tribute to My Mama

Beautiful, but humble.
Strong, but kind.
Fun, but spiritual.
Adventurous, but nurturing.
These are words that describe my mother.

Enjoy Time With Your Loved Ones While You Can

A few weeks ago, I held my mother’s her hand as we drove with my brother and sister-in-law to my hometown in Southeastern Utah for my uncle’s graveside service. While we talk a lot, I do not see her often. She lives a few hours away from me and COVID-19 cancelled any plans to visit soon. It was wonderful to be with her although the occasion was sad. We carpooled with my two beautiful nieces and my niece’s two adorable babies.

We played a game called “Flower Power” on the way. It is a Gutke family favorite we played on road trips. A person thinks of two rhyming words and then gives clues to for others to guess. If your rhyming words were “Silly Willie” then a clue could be a “Funny Bill” or if they were “Happy Pappy” then your clues could be a “Content Grandfather.” My clue was a “Forward Tent” and so my brother guessed “Flirty Yurty” and we all laughed. My answer was a “Creepy Teepee” but I liked my brother’s idea better. My mother gave a clue and I do not remember what it was, but I do remember she laughed so hard at my brother’s guess of “Dull Bull” that she had tears streaming down her face. She kept saying, “those words don’t rhyme.” It was fun to hear her laugh and laugh.

We stayed a cabin near the Abajo Mountain Range. The locals call it “Blue Mountain” and we burst into song as soon as you can see it on the road from Moab. I loved hearing the wind rustle the tall pines and the babble of the small creek down nearby.

"Blue Mountain, your azure deep.
Blue Mountain with sides so steep.
Blue Mountain with Horsehead on your side.
You have won our love to keep."

You Never Know When A Person’s Time Will Come

We attended the graveside service of my mother’s older brother, Jack Duane Palmer. You can read more about him here. My mother and her brother were close. He was a big tease, hardworking, and devoted to his family.

It was good to be with his widow, cousins, and extended family at the graveside service. His children and grandchildren shared stories and memories. My favorite story came from his granddaughter. She said he would enter her house without knocking, raid the pantry for a treat, and then leave without talking to anyone.

My uncle had stage-four pancreatic cancer, but he had a bad fall, and was gone within a matter of hours from complications. It taught me how precious life is and we should enjoy each moment as it comes and stop living in the past or worry too much about the future.

I don’t know how long I will have my parents. They are some of my best friends. I love to be with my them and I want to make sure they know I love them before my time is gone with them. My mom is fun and always doing silly things. She dances when she walks and splashes her bare feet in cold mountain streams. She is fun to play games with and is very enthusiastic. She has always cared about my children and my husband and constantly asks after their welfare. She consistently sends birthday cards, anniversary cards, and is doing kind things for others. I hope I can be like her one day.

Celebrating my Great Grandmother’s Birthday

Today is my third great grandmother Lizzie’s birthday! She would have been 157 years old. I am sad when people say that their lives have no meaning and they don’t matter. It is only because they can’t see the big picture! Each of us does make an impact–especially with our children, grandchildren and future generations. I love this woman and feel connected to her even though she died 30 years before I was born. The more I have studied her life, the more I love and respect her. It is because of how she dealt with the problems that came her way, not because her life was perfect.

Happy Birthday Grandma Lizzie!

Elizabeth Kenney Stevens

Lizzie’s Early Years

Lizzie was the oldest child of six and she was cheerful and kind. She laughed and smiled as she helped her mother cook, tend her brothers and sisters, take care of the farm, and make clothes for her family. When she was young, the dam above her town broke and the flooded everything. Her family had nothing and had to move to another town and start over. The people in her new town helped them with food and clothing and temporary housing until they could get situated.

When Lizzie was ten or eleven, a silver mine was discovered in Pioche, Nevada and it quickly became a large town. Her father decided to fill their wagon full of produce and to drive it to Nevada to sell it to the miners. His wagon broke down along the way and he was stranded for a few years. 

While he was gone, Lizzie got a job at the local general store as a clerk to help support her mother. She made cheese and buttermilk and fresh bakery items and sold them to the traveler. Her boss had a son named Joshua Stevens who was six years older than Elizabeth. They had gone to school together in the same one room schoolhouse. He had been gone for a few years but was quickly smitten with Lizzie who had grown into a beautiful young lady with blonde hair and beautiful eyes. 

Marriage and Honeymoon

After a summer courtship, the married in the fall. Joshua told her he had been asked to go with a group of missionaries called to start a new settlement to be located in southeastern Utah.  Joshua’s brother David and an uncle of theirs would also be going with them. They were to meet up with the group outside of a town called Escalante and they would make their journey southeast toward Colorado across a short cut. It was only supposed to take six weeks.

When they arrived, they found the shortcut was impassable. With snow covering the mountains over the way they had come and many of the pioneers had already sold their property to make the move, they voted to continue on through the red rocks and twisting canyons of modern day Grand Escalante Staircase. They blasted an unconceivable road and it took them six months instead of six weeks.

Map of the road Joshua and Lizzie Stevens took
It is the only pioneer expedition that went East.

What impresses me about Lizzie is her ability to be happy despite her circumstances. She was a young girl of 16 years old. She had never been more than ten miles from her home. She learned quickly to cook over an open fire and sleep under the wagon on the hard ground. She probably got scared with the coyotes wailing at night.  As their food ran out, she had to eat beef every day and what little greenery she could find along the trail.

Gunfights in New Mexico

After they made it to the new settlement, Joshua and David decided to settle further upriver in New Mexico. She was the first white woman in the area and may have felt scared or out of place, but she rolled up her sleeves and helped to make a home for her family. The area quickly became overrun with outlaws as it was a few days ride from Durango Colorado and there were many marshalls in the area. One particular outlaw threatened Joshua and David and took over their home when they were gone. A gunfight followed leaving David badly wounded and Joshua with black hands and a scar across the forehead. I can’t imagine the worry she felt as this went on.

Moving to Northern Chihuahua

Eventually, Lizzie and Joshua moved to the Mormon Colonies in Mexico. Eventually she had fourteen children and raised thirteen to adulthood. She cooked, cleaned, gardened, canned, carted wool, spun wool, and made all the children’s clothing and household items. They built a nice life for themselves down there and then she lost her husband prematurely when he was murdered by strangers during the Mexican Revolution.  She had to leave her comfortable home and all they had worked for twenty years.  She moved back in to the States where she eventually died at the ageof 84. She was alone for thirty six years and did her best to be a good example to her large family. 

Why Her Story Speaks to Me

I admire her faith and obedience. I admire her kindness and good nature. I admire her willingness to work hard and to not complain. I want to be more like this woman and I celebrate her life.